A pantry across time

The Lebanese pantry has always had visitors

Tomatoes, sesame, allspice and the journeys hidden inside familiar flavours.

The Maadad Kitchen3 min readUpdated Sources & reading

An ingredient does not have to originate in Lebanon to become part of Lebanese cooking. A pantry is shaped by what grows nearby, what can be traded, what people can afford and what cooks choose to keep. Looking at those journeys makes familiar food more interesting, not less Lebanese.

What the evidence can tell us

A plant’s native range, its first cultivation, its arrival in a region and its appearance in a particular dish are four different dates. Often only some of them are known.

The tomato changes the picture

Kew places the tomato’s roots in the Americas and its introduction to Europe in the sixteenth century. That gives us a clear limit: the tomato-rich dishes familiar today cannot have existed in exactly that form in the Phoenician period. It does not give us a single date when Lebanese cooks began putting tomatoes into salads, fillings or stews.[1]

Look through our contemporary recipe collection and notice how often tomato appears. Then imagine a historian examining an earlier version of one of those dishes. Removing tomato would not be enough to recreate it. The grain, souring ingredient, fat, cooking vessel and proportions would all need to be investigated too.

Allspice is a plant, not a blend

Pimenta dioica, the plant that gives us allspice, is native to the Western Hemisphere, as Kew’s botanical account records. Its English name can make it sound like a general assortment of spices, but it is a particular plant. An ancient Levantine spice reconstruction should not casually include it just because its flavour feels familiar in a modern kitchen.[2]

This is a useful prompt for reading any spice mixture: list the individual ingredients. A name such as “seven spice” does not tell you which seven, where they grew, when the blend was recorded or how widely it was used. Those are questions for a specific recipe and producer, not assumptions to make from the label.

Earlier exchange was already complex

Sesame provides a different timeline. Research on the southern Levant discusses Iron Age archaeological finds and later references to cultivation, including Syria in a Roman agricultural text. That makes it a useful example of an oil crop with a history far older than today’s bottled neutral oils. It does not make every modern sesame preparation equally old.[3]

Trade should not be imagined as a single delivery followed by instant universal adoption. A luxury ingredient might be available at one port but absent from many households. The evidence needed for availability is different from the evidence needed for everyday use.

A medieval taste of abundance

NYU Press’s description of the thirteenth-century Scents and Flavors names seasonings such as rose, cloves, saffron and nutmeg. Alongside food, the text treats perfumes and other preparations for the dining experience. This is a documented medieval culinary setting with its own interests, not simply a bridge between Phoenicia and a present-day mezze menu.[4]

A fascinating future comparison would put a dated recipe beside its nearest modern relative and annotate every difference. Until both texts have been examined, the honest caption is “a comparison to investigate”, not “the original recipe”. That keeps curiosity alive without turning a resemblance into a historical fact.

What to carry to the table

Imported ingredients can become deeply rooted traditions. Their journeys explain the cuisine’s history; they do not cancel its identity.

Ask someone who remembers.

Which ingredient would most surprise you to discover was once unfamiliar in your family’s kitchen?

Share a story or a correction ↗

Sources & further reading

Historical evidence and contemporary cooking references serve different purposes. The notes below explain how each source was used. Sources checked 29 August 2026.

  1. Tomato: Solanum lycopersicum

    Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew

    American origins and introduction to Europe in the sixteenth century; not a date of arrival in Lebanon.

  2. Pimenta dioica: general information

    Kew, Plants of the World Online

    Botanical origin of allspice in the Western Hemisphere.

  3. A tale of two agricultural revolutions: crop introductions in the long 1st millennium CE southern Levant

    Hansen and colleagues, Vegetation History and Archaeobotany

    Crop evidence, including sesame in Iron Age contexts and later written accounts. Regional evidence is not a Lebanese recipe.

  4. Scents and Flavors: A Syrian Cookbook

    NYU Press, Library of Arabic Literature

    Publisher description of Charles Perry’s translation of a thirteenth-century text. Description consulted, not the full manuscript.

Read our editorial approachBack to top ↑